

Isn't this fun!?Come follow the renovation of a 1920's duplex in the near-southside neighborhood of Fountain Square in Indianapolis...


Isn't this fun!?
I bought the lumber from Hall & House on the Southside (Epler & Bluff). I grew up down there, but have never patronized their lumber yard. I never checked prices in the beginning, but after I received the bill of materials, I priced it all out relative to a Menards ticket I had and the prices were only $0.20 higher generally. No delivery charge made it all relative, and as they counter guy said "If we left anything off, I'll load it up in the pickup truck and bring it to ya." You won't get that service from Menards.








There are definitely areas that need a little help, especially the roof line where water drains:

I'm going to take the entire back wall of siding off, since I have to re-frame both doors and back windows. Also, we need to get the meter bases on the wall back here next week, and I want to make sure that the electricians have the space they need. The windows on the back were pocket style windows that actually operated by lowering into the wall below. It's pretty fun to check out the interior wall framing of these old techniques.

Instead of a square landing, we're going to introduce a kind of odd-shaped landing with an extra stair cut into it. That will allow the lower run of the stairs to clear the completely inadequate headroom almost at about 6'-0". Code is 6'-8", so we're close. Close enough. The framing will be simple, because we have to introduce a couple of extra 4x6 posts, onto which the landing as well as the bottom and top of the stringers can attach. All of the lumber will pe pressure treated, which means these days you need to use extra good, special screws. I use Menards premium deck screws, which are about $20 a box. The strange treating method will cause virtually anything else short of stainless steel or tripple coated galvanized to disentegrate over time. Not good with a structural component.

These will help in building out the stringers from a stock 8' 2 x 12:
On the stringers I'm going to install 5/4" treated decking in lieu of plywood or other typical stair tread material. Since these go to the basement and don't have to look all too pretty, I figure 5/4 would be an easy, cheap maintenance free material, which is also easy to remove if necessary. I remember having to remove my 2 x 12 tread in my existing house to get something in the basement once.
With all of this, and the help of my co-worker Kurt (for a price unfortunately), we should be able to knock the stairs out in a couple of evenings.

Instead, we started by finishing off cleaning up the kitchen. Most of the work is happening in the old kitchens, and I've found that it is easier to start in the beginning to remove ALL of the nails from the floor ahead of time. Of course, that's after you remove the plaster and lathe (haha). The last thing you want is to be vacuuming and have to deal with a billion nails sticking out everywhere from the two layers of old flooring that was installed with 8d nails. Plus, we're putting down luan and replacing some floor, so a clean floor is just a good way to start. PS...get a respirator and wear it. Very dirty job.
Once the kitchen was cleaned up, I had to replace some of the floor. I really had hoped to get more than one side done, but as it turned out the weekend was just enough time for the North side. It is the harder side, due to a few extra areas of rotten flooring, so that's going for us. Saturday started out with cleaning, and mid-day it was time for a trip to Menards. I had the largest load I can imagine in the new truck this time. I bet we were in the 2000 lbs. range, probably overloaded for this F150, but it got me back home. I got back and started in on cutting out the bad sections of flooring. It got dark around 6:30, but it felt like 8pm, so I quit to get in some family time.
Waking up in the morning, the first job was set already. It had started raining about five in the morning, and I never checked in with then weatherman, so my wood load and plaster filled trash cans were just getting wetter and wetter by the hour. Dummy! And after Saturday, my back was killing me, so work today was supposed to be lighter than normal -- yeah right, that wasn't about to happen today. After moving 100 plus studs, a couple sheets of 3/4" OSB and about ten 2 x 10 x 14's, it was time to get to work work.
Cutting the holes for the flooring replacement was easy. Three areas in the North unit kitchen were rotten. The middle wall area was mostly rotten, probably because of water damage from the bath above over time, and an area to the Northeast (2nd pic) that was sinking due to a lot of water coming off the roof and deteriorating the exterior bearing wall.
Introducing new framing members to a floor that is pretty much intact isn't exactly an easy task, especially alone. I took a crow bar and some blocking to pry against to task, and worked pretty much everything out well for myself. The basement windows are currently missing, which made it easy to get the 14' 2x10's into the basement, and tearing out the blocking between the units allowed the placement of the 14'ers easily.
The introduction of new framing along the middle wall allows for future hidden HVAC ductwork. Something had to be built to carry the load of the floor joists, which in this case was a doubled up header with joist hangers (hopefully code worthy).

At the end of the day, the new joist framing and new support header beam came together nicely. The finishing touch was to put the sub-floor in place with glue and screws. I even screwed every original board I cut through back to the joists to maintain the integrity ofthe original 1x3 plank deck material. And I used a little PL400 (or whatever DAP version is applicable) to glue the new floor to the joists and improve the bond between old and new. Ultimately, a new luan underlayment will be placed on which the final floor finish will be installed.


I had to use 3/4" sub-floor material, and in this case it was OSB, because it's only $12 vs. $22. Generally, OSB is a touch less desirable because of screw hold capacity, or it's full of formaldehyde, but everybody has their own opinion. I used it because it was half as expensive and was interior only never to be exposed to weather (except when the owner forgets to consult the weatherman before leaving stuff in his truck bed). Ultimately the original floor is 7/8" instead of 3/4", so there's quite a lip differential between the old and new. Since I'm putting luan down, I figured it wouldn't matter much. I just plan on putting down some leveling compound prior to the luan installation.